Road to be constructed
through the
Caucasian Biosphere (Kavkazsky) Zapovednik.

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This year, while UNESCO considers whether to grant Kavkazsky Biosphere Zapovednik status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a project to construct a road through the heart of the Zapovednik threatens to undermine the reserve's potential honor and its biodiversity.

A Long and Winding Road through the Caucasus Must be Stopped!

by Vladimir Cherpakov

On May 12, 1999, Kavkazsky Zapovednik celebrated its 75th anniversary. One of Russia's oldest reserves, the Zapovednik's long history has been punctuated by many dramatic events, including the 1951 closure of a third of its territory. (From its original area of 320 ha, the reserve was sliced down to a mere 99 000 ha. But thanks to the efforts of the Zapovednik staff and the public, the Zapovednik's original territory was reinstated in 1992).

Today the reserve faces another dramatic event: a project that, if completed, could permanently destroy many valuable and vulnerable ecosystems protected in the Zapovednik. The project, a mountain road through the northern section of reserve, was proposed some 35 years ago but canceled in the wake of a protest by many leading scientists, writers, and Zapovednik employees. Once again, however, the project looms on the horizon. Although the plan, if completed, would be in direct violation of five federal environmental laws, it seems to be gaining momentum in the local administrations of the Adegeya Republic.

The road is projected to scale four high-mountain passes whose altitudes range from 1783 m (Belorechensky) to 1956 m (Guzeriplsky); the height of Armenian and Cherkessky Passes are 1866 m and 1836 m, respectively. If constructed according to the current design, the road will dissect the Lagonaki Plateau and the Fisht-Oshtensky Mountain Massif, two of the Zapovedniks's most extraordinary areas known for their geological history and high biodiversity.

Together the Plateau and Massif comprise the high mountain part of the Lagonakskoe Upland, one of the Caucasus region's most significant centers of plant endemism. Over 1000 vascular plant species are found here, of which 25 percent are endemic. The upland's limestone rocks harbor a wide array of flora, particularly calcareous plant species. The high percentage of endemism here may be attributed to the area's climate and geographic location, which have contributed to the evolution of endemic flora. Other rare or endemic species on the upland that threatened by the road are êîëîêîëü÷èê Îò_àíà, øà_îâíèöà âîëîñîöâåòêîâàÿ, Colchis saxifrage (Saxifraga colchica), êàìíåëîìêà êîëõèäñêàÿ, ìîëî÷àé îøòåíñêèé, and ìèíóà_öèÿ ê_àñíî÷àøå÷íàÿ. {we are trying to find the Latin names for these species} The descent of the road from the high mountain zone to the forest zone will require the felling of unique and relict beech and box forests in the plateau's Shakhe River Valley. In total, 18 and 45 plant species found here are listed in the Russian Red Data Book and the Red Data Book of the Adygea Republic, respectively.

The Fisht-Oshtensky Mountain Massif is also particularly threatened by the road. This mountain range is widely regarded as the genetic center from which plant biodiversity in the western Caucasus has evolved. The sub-alpine meadows on the massif are especially notable for their unusually high number of plant species with 113 species found per 400 ì,2 a record in the western Caucasus.

Because an Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA) has still not been conducted, the potential loss of biodiversity as a result of the road has yet to be quantified. The road is certain to fragment the reserve's valuable habitats but there are a number of uncertain outcomes. For instance, it is difficult to predict how the fragile limestone areas and their plant communities will fare during the detonation of rocky slopes to make way for the road. Similarly, it is impossible to gauge how the vibrations from the blasts will affect the underground karst formations and the redistribution of water.

While the exact effects on the water table are unknown, the project clearly poses some negative consequences for the rivers, the watersheds, and the people of the region. The sources of the Pshekha and Tsitse Rivers and their tributaries, the main water suppliers to the large population centers in the region, are fed by the karst waters in the Lagonakskoe Upland. The road will also will cross the upper reaches of the Belaya (White) River, one of the main water arteries providing drinking water for the Adygea Republic. The Belaya River is remarkable for its pure, crystal waterfalls and internationally known by white-water enthusiasts. (Several international kayaking competitions have been held on the Belaya).

Wildlife of this region will also suffer from the road project, which will disturb the area's rare bird populations bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus), griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus), Caucasian blackcock (Lyrurus mlokoseiwiczi), Caucasian snowcock (Tetraogallus caucasicus), and corncrake (Crex crex) and fragment the habitats of rare endemic amphibians and reptiles as well as the habitat of an isolated population of Caucasian chamois (Rupicarpa rupicarpa). Finally, the migration routes of red deer (Cervus elaphus) and Caucasian brown bear (Ursus arctos) will be severed.

What could be the economic benefit of building a road in a high mountain zone rife with alpine rivers, avalanche chutes, and wide talus slopes? Has any assessment even been made of the potential dangers to human life in this region, such as extremely high precipitation, fog, black ice, avalanches, falling rocks, mud slides, earthquakes, and tectonic movements? Even when the project was first proposed in the days of the Soviet Union, there was never a fiscal plan to support the road. Today it is difficult to imagine a more unsound project whose faults are made obvious at every turn: insufficient economic substantiation, no legal background, and no environmental impact or natural disaster assessments. In fact, this project seems particularly senseless in light of the already existing roads bypassing the Zapovednik at lower altitudes.

Finally, the completion of the road will also aggravate one of the main problems faced by the Zapovednik today, the ever-intensifying pressure of human visitors. In recent years, flourishing mountain tourism in the region has had a number of egative impacts on the Lagonakskoe Upland ecosystems. According to official information, approximately 1,200 people visited the area in 1997, while in 1998 this figure rose by more than 2.5 times. The telltale signs of recreation have appeared in this area: trash, illegal cuttings, fire pits, fires, and the collection and destruction of rare, beautiful wildlife, including plants, insects, and snakes. Currently, the Zapovednik is completely unprepared to control an influx of spontaneous tourists. The construction of a new road, however, promises to make the great wilderness accessible to all, allowing more tourists and poachers to enter the area.

From the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, we appeal to the international community to help us oppose this outlandish and dastardly project. Please send letters to our officials in charge of this project recognizing the global importance of our Zapovednik and expressing your outrage at this wasteful and destructive project.

Vladimir Cherpakov is Director of the Adygea Branch of Kavkazsky Biosphere Zapovednik.

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Kavkazsky Zapovednik: Land of Limestone

As the ancient sea retreated in the Jurassic period from what is today the Lagonakskoe Upland, it left in its wake limestone, dolomite, and marl deposits, comprising the bedrock on the Lagonakskoe Upland today. In some sections, the limestone deposits here reach a depth of 800 to 850 m. Tectonic shifts throughout the millennia have remolded the bedrock into a host of karst formations that amaze and defy the imagination: funnels, fields, minor depressions, and sinkholes above ground as well as deep channels and caves underground.

Pockmarked by various karst formations, the Fisht Mountain is home to some of Russia's greatest underground attractions. At the mountain's 2225 m mark, Russia's deepest karst channel (517 m) is found, complete with a lake at the bottom paradoxically named Soaring Bird. The cave system, Cross of Friends, sets another record for deepness: at 650 m, it is the deepest system in Russia. Nearly every year spelunkers discover new caves here, many of which are punctured by stalactites and stalagmites.

Ample, year-round, precipitation falling on the Lagonakskoe Upland is absorbed by the underground karst formations within the mountains. As moisture percolates through these formations, it replenishes emerald green and white water lakes far below the surface. When karst cavities reach their saturation point, water streams out through the system of caves, raising the water level in rivers. The Lagonakskoe Upland receives an astonishing 3000mm of precipitation a year, making it the wettest place in the Zapovednik. In some sections of the upland, a 6 to 9 m layer of snow blankets the ground for a period of 9 to 10 months.

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A Profile of Kavkazsky Zapovednik's Flora and Fauna

From lower altitudes to the snowline, a full range of vegetative plant communities is found on the Lagonakskoe Upland. Beech, found at 500 to 1500 m, and fir forests in the range of 1000 to 1800 m grow at low latitudes, while the upper forested belt consists of crooked birch forests (2000 to 2300 m) interspersed with pine and boulder fields. Thickets of Caucasus rhododendron (Rhododendron caucasicum) and picturesque tall-grass meadows grow in the sub-alpine belt (1800 to 2400m). Climbing higher, meadow-heathland communities in the alpine belt (up to 2800) are succeeded by a subnival zone.

Over time, as a unique symbiotic relationship developed between alpine flora and their primary pollinators, bumble bees, a number of endemic species evolved here with special adaptations to accommodate the relationship. As a result, the Lagonakskoe Upland exhibits high entomological diversity, particularly in the Hymenoptera (bee) family. In addition, the study of the ground beetle family, Carabidae (beetles) has revealed the presence of 68 species in the Lagonakskoe Upland, 11 of which (16 percent) are narrow endemics in the western Caucasus. Endemic species have also been observed in other groups of insects. Over 70 insect species registered here are included in the Russian Red Data Book as well as the Red Data Book of the Adygea Republic.

Other endemic species, too, are found in this region. This area serves as habitat for rare endemic amphibians and reptiles of the Caucasus: Dinnik viper (Vipera dinniki), Caucasus viper (Vipera kaznakowi), banded newt (Triturus vittatus), Caucasian newt (Triturus vulgaris lantzi), and Caucasian parsley frog (Pelodytes caucasicus).

Rare bird species inhabiting the region include the bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus), griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus), honey buzzard (Pernis apivorus), golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetus), European black vulture (Aegypius monachus), Caucasian blackcock (Lyrurus mlokoseiwiczi), Caucasian snowcock (Tetraogallus caucasicus), corncrake (Crex crex), and wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria).

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The authorities of the Adygeya republic actively continue lobbying in support of the Lagonaki-Dagomys road project, menacing the wild natural resources of the Caucasian Biosphere Zapovednik.

At a joint commission meeting of the Krasnodar territory and Adygeya a decision was reached accepting this road construction as a necessity.

by Andrey Rudomakha and Dmitry Bolotnikov of the Socio-Ecological Union of Western Caucasus

from the Independent Ecogical Service on North-West Caucasus<ies@mail.ru>


On May 13, 1999 the Krasnodar territory and Adygeya Republic joint commission meeting was held in Maikop in the House of Government to address the problem of the Lagonaki-Dagomys road construction. It was expected that at this meeting the refusal to lay a road-line on the Lagonaki-Dagomys route would be accepted, since this road will pass through especially protected territories; the Caucasian Zapovednik and Sochi National Park. However quite the opposite decision was reached.

The meeting was largely devoted to considering the results from a feasibility study on the motorway line selection from Maikop up to the Black Sea coast, developed by the North-Caucasian branch GiprodorNII. The feasibility study recognized two variants as the most advisable routes: #2 (Maikop-Tuapse) and #4 (Lagonaki-Dagomys). But in the feasibility study GiprodorNII lobbies frankly for the Lagonaki-Dagomys variant. As the Krasnodar side remarked, the study is not objective. According to the study, the expenses of activities on both variants are approximately equal. It is obvious that the cost of a new road in the most difficult high-mountainous conditions and the cost of reconstruction of an already existing road can not be identical. A year ago, according to the data of the same GiprodorNII, the road to Tuapse was estimated to cost four times less than the Lagonaki-Dagomys variant. How could construction on these two variants have comparative expenditures now? The designers could not provide clear answers to the majority of the Krasnodar side's questions, who suggested frank falsification of real parameters in the feasibility study for road-line selection. It has become obvious that the authorities of Adygeya Republic have found ways "to interest" the designers to lobby through the feasibility study for the road variant passing through the Zapovednik. Such accusations even sounded at a meeting from one of the representatives of the Krasnodar territory. The position of the Krasnodar territory delegation headed by Vice-Chairman Bardakov V.I. was unanimous - the Lagonaki-Dagomys variant is unacceptable. It is necessary to reconstruct the Maikop-Tuapse road. It was convincingly reasoned both from economic and from ecological positions. However, the Adygeya delegation's position was also unanimous, but for the contrary opinion, that the Lagonaki-Dagomys road was necessary. The only individual to take a different tone was the Adygeya Republic's ecology minister, Kozmenko G.G. He said that it was necessary to submit the project for ecological assessment and has underscored that the project will have difficulty passing such an assessment. The most ardent supporter of the Lagonaki-Dagomys road was Brichev R.H.mIn, from a chapter of the especially protected ecological-tourism territory "Fisht".

Due to such divergence of positions, the two sides accepted a compromise. They agreed that the considered variants do not compete with each other, and that the construction of a road both on the Maikop-Tuapse variant, and on the Lagonaki-Dagomys variant, is necessary. As the project's feasibility study has many failings, the project activities are being prolonged, so that it can be submitted for ecological assessment, a process practically the same in time and volume, as the already realized study. It was then decided to petition the Federal Road Service for allocation of additional financing to readjust the feasibility study and allow for elaboration of an Environmental Impact Assessment concerning the projects of both roads.

The extremely negative aspect was the atmosphere of secrecy in which the commission meeting was organized. None of the ecological organizations that are engaged in this problem, nor the Caucasian Zapovednik - landowner of the territories through which the road is planned to be constructed, were informed about this meeting. As a result, there was not a single representative from the Zapovednik at the meeting, and the representative of the Socio-ecological Union of Western Caucasus had to look for "alternative" ways to get to this meeting, in spite of the fact that he was not admitted there officially. Adygeya's economy minister, Avdienko N.V., who was responsible for organizing the commission meeting, did not permit a SEU representative to participate despite the facts that; (1) the Krasnodar side was "for" participation of the SEU representative in this meeting, (2) an official letter sent to the Western Caucasus SEU with a stated request to attract SEU to commission work, and (3) the requests of the Adygeya State Council deputies. After such actions is it possible to believe the Adygeya authorities' announcements regarding their intention to full glasnost concerning the project of the Lagonaki-Dagomys road?

The SEU Representative delivered a new appeal of the Western Caucasus SEU to commission members and representatives of the mass media calling for the refusal of plans to build the Lagonaki-Dagomys road. During this commission meeting 20 ecological activists, in spite of rainy weather, took part in a picket line against the Lagonaki-Dagomys road. The history of the Lagonaki-Dagomys road project, unfortunately, has not yet been finished. As this project continues to menace the pristine character of the Caucasian Zapovednik, SEU of Western Caucasus and the ecological-communitarian union "Atshy" will have to strengthen the protest campaign against the road.

A.Rudomakha
D.Bolotnikov

Send email to ies@mail.ru to find out how you can help them in this fight. Or go to the contacts page for individuals who need to hear your protest on this issue!

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